In order to go Kayaking, you'll need a kayak!

 

Kayak:

Kayaks come in all shapes and sizes!  I will briefly go into the different types that you can buy; however, if you have a different purpose other than river or lake kayaking, I encourage you to investigate further!

There are 2 mainstream groups of kayaks:

     - Whitewater- These kayaks do not necessarily need to be used in rapids.  This style of kayak is usually smaller, smoother, and there are no edges, making it easier to maneuver on faster waters.  However, due to it's maneuverability, a whitewater kayak is more unstable than a sea kayak.

     - Sea (touring)-  Just like the whitewater, a sea kayak does not mean that it can be used only in the sea.  Sea kayaks are also referred to as touring kayaks.  These types of kayaks are generally more stable because they have a straighter keel, a hard chine, and moderate flare (discussed below).  Unlike the whitewater, sea kayaks cannot make tight turns quickly, but they offer a nice, stable ride.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Important Features of Kayaks!

     - Rocker- Refers to the ends of the kayak in relation to the overall

shape of the kayak.  In the picture to t he right, the top kayak has a flat

rocker, giving the kayak more points of contact with the water.  This

design gives the kayak a straighter keel, meaning that when paddling,

the kayak will go in a straight line.  These features are typically found

on sea/touring kayaks.  Unlike the top drawing, the kayak on the

bottom only has one point of contact with the water, allowing the

kayaker to easily turn and go any direction that they want to go, or just follow the flow of the water.  Whitewater kayaks are more likely to be a "banana boat" because you need easy maneuverability in faster waters.

 

 

 

     - Flare- In the cross section of a kayak, it is the point from the keel line to the deck (top of the kayak).  The more flare a kayak has, the more stable the kayak is, making it harder to roll.  Also, a moderate flare prevents waves from washing over the deck of the kayak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     - Chine- Refers to the angle of the side of the kayak to the bottom.  Touring/sea kayaks will have a hard chine, contributing to the stability of the craft.  Whitewater kayaks have a soft chine, allowing for faster speeds.

 

 

Kayaking Terminology:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Material:

 

                                                                - Rotationally Molded Plastics- Polyethylene, Thermoformed, and Polycarbonate plastics-                                                               Places that rent out kayaks for recreational use will have these types of kayaks.  Plastic                                                                 kayaks are inexpensive, very durable, and require little maintenance.  These kayaks are                                                                   also recommended for whitewater rapids since they can take a beating.  However, being                                                               made out of plastic, these kayaks will weigh more, and you cannot replace the material                                                                 once it wears out; you would have to buy a new kayak.

 

                                                                 - Fiberglass- Used more for sea kayaks where it's unlikely that they will run into hard                                                                       objects.  Unlike the plastic kayaks, which are soft and can flex, Fiberglass can become                                                                   damaged in areas with a lot of rocks.  However, even though Fiberglass is more expensive                                                             than the plastic kayaks, they are lighter and you can replace parts easily on a Fiberglass                                                                 kayak.  With proper maintenance, a Fiberglass kayak can last for years!

 

- Kevlar- Kevlar kayaks are very light, durable, but expensive.  If going for a Kevlar, make sure that the kayak is made of several layers of the Kevlar, or that it was mixed with carbon.  Even though Kevlar is a very strong material, it can flex, which could crack the outer gel coating.

 

- Wood- More for people who want to build their own kayaks.  Depending

on the work done, wood kayaks can be just as light and durable as Kevlar

and Fiberglass kayaks.  It is also easy to fix and replace parts of a wood

kayak.  However if someone wants a wooden kayak made for them, it can

cost more than a Kevlar, while if they make one themselves, can cost less

than a plastic kayak. 

 

- Inflatable and Canvas/ hypalon- Material for inflatable and folding kayaks vary.  Of course, the more expensive a kayak is, the more durable the material should be.  Canvas is good for folding kayaks because the material is waterproof, but it also breathes, so on a hot day, your legs are not boiling.  However, hypalon is more durable than canvas and is resistant to abrasive surfaces.  *Make sure these kayaks are used in the right conditions!*

 

 

Paddles:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     Above are just a few basic ideas about the different paddle styles.  The feathered styles allow for a faster stroke because you do not have to adjust the paddle when switching to the other side.  Also, the reduced surface area allows the blade to cut through the air on a stroke.  When using a paddle, one hand will be the control hand, and the other will be a slip.  A controlled hand will grip the shaft tightly while a slip is there for guidance and adjusts according to the stroke.  Your control hand does not have to be your dominant hand.  As far as sizing and shapes go for paddles, it's all about trying out the best size and grip style to determine what is comfortable for you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     Just like kayaks, paddles are made of different materials too!

 

 

     - Plastic/ Aluminum- An inexpensive paddle, however, out of the other materials, this is probably the heaviest.  Bendy and not as strong, but good for beginners.  There is no comfortable grip, making this paddle harder on the hands.  Also, in cooler temperatures, a kayaker might have to wear gloves or Pogies, which insulates a kayaker's hands and the shaft of the paddle.

 

     - Fiberglass- A step up from the plastic and aluminum paddles.  A little more pricey, but more lightweight and durable.  Bends a little less than plastic and aluminum.

 

     - Carbon Fiber- Usually more expensive as well as lighter than the other two.  Very rigid, which could be a good thing when looking for strong, powerful strokes.

 

*Remember try out the paddle before you buy it!  Find something that is comfortable in size and in style.  Also, if going on a kayaking trip, bring a spare paddle!*

 

Clothes:

Clothes might not seem like a big issue, but when you are in your kayak for most of the day, you do not want to spend it sitting there in wet clothes!  Also, even though the weather might be sunny, it always takes longer for the water to become warmer!  On kayaking trips, especially in colder temperatures, people will sometimes wear either a wetsuit or a drysuit.  Below, I will weigh the benefits of the Wetsuit and drysuit.  You don't always need fancy suits to keep you warm.  A blog,  http://shanksmare.com/?p=5302, discusses the three layers needed to stay warm.

 

     - Wetsuit- You will get wet in wetsuits!   Wetsuits are usually made of neoprene, which allows a thin layer of water in, if you have a proper fitting suit.  Your body heat will warm up the water, creating a thin insulating barrier of warm water as well as the neoprene layer.  There are all different types of wetsuits; tops, full body suit, and you can combined the layers if needed.

 

     - DrySuit- Drysuits will keep you dry!  Some drysuits are made of neoprene, but they are not as tight fitting.  If you have an allergy to Latex, be cautious when buying a drysuit; sometimes the seals are made of latex.  The seals are important in keeping water out, and when they wear out, you have to buy a new suit.

     Sometimes there might be trapped air bubbles in a drysuit, which can be dangerous if you end up being submerged underwater.  Even if you are wearing a PFD, the air bubble might cause you to flip upside down!  There are techniques to release the air bubble, like lifting the seal around the neck ("burping the suit").    Drysuits sometime require more than one piece for insulation, which can make it more expensive than a wetsuit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sources:

http://www.sherrikayaks.com/2009/11/20/the-best-hull-material-for-kayaks/

http://www.nrs.com/kayaks/kayak_terminology.asp

http://www.topkayaker.net/Articles/Instruction/HullDesign.htm

http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak-paddle.html

Kayaking: Whitewater and Touring Basics  by Steven M. Krauzer.